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Saturday, April 14, 2018

Prepping for your first drift event!

 Peep this video:

So you just got your new drift car, which was one of the 5 I mentioned in the last video. You are pumped on being stoked to hit your first drift event. What the hell do you do next? 

Here is my take on having a good ol time with your boys at your local track for the first time, so you don't look like a complete idiot.

Things to brings 
Tires... This may seem stupid but I have seen many a dude show up, roast his only set of tires until they pop, and have to get the car towed home. 
Find wheels and tires before you show up, as you never know if someone witll be there to change tires. 
A jack, duh
Fill your fluids up. make sure you are topped of and dont end your day prematurely. bring extras as drift cars like to shit themselves 
tools dont be the bro that has to borrow everything everytime they break something
duct tape duh 
zip ties, double duh
helmet for passengers if giving rides, not all tracks rent, but all tracks require helmets, illuminati confrimed 
water and stuff
long pants (some places need long shirts), no sense in cutting the dirty laundry you left in the trunk up to make a shitty long sleeve shirt. 
friends. bring them people as thats what keeps events going, plus you have a sick ass cheering squad to watch you spin out. 
that welded diff, no point in being there if you didnt do that one key step 

The first thing you have to do at literally every single drift day is
Over the last 10 years, I have seen some shit when teching cars, so make your local event organizers life easy, and dont be "that guy"

show up with 6 total lug nuts 
a half functional automatic seatbelt (or just lapbelt for that matter)
 a casually resting battery being held down by nothing but gravity
 5 different fluids leaking at the same time
a straight piped NA RX7
 a bicycle helmet
no doors
no windshield
a car full of shit
wires hanging everywhere
your ECU on the floorboard, unsecured in the slightest
ask for a refund if your dumb ass didnt pass. Its 100% your fault. 

Read the tech rules for your local series, they all differ, comps will always be more serious tech wise than practice
Make your car adhere to the above, before you get there, doing it after is a waste of goddamn time for everyone involved 
have your helmet in the car during tech
get a 12 dollar fire extinguisher from Walmart, just because you don;t drift a Ferrari, doesn't mean shit won't get lit
Have your car empty when you bring it to be teched. If I have to move your stank ass laundry off your battery, and have you claim that was tying it down, I will throat punch you. 
show up to tech on time
have places to tow from, front and rear, as a new guy, you will probably go off the track and get stuck at some point. 


DO NOT MISS THIS, especially if this so happens to be your first event. Drivers meetings usually occur within an hour of the actual event start time, check with your local track dudes. 

Many important things are gone over in the meeting, such as 

more safety
did i mention safety? 
track entrance and exits 
course laytout
rules on passengers
rules for passengers 
skid pad rules 
track etiquette 
lead and follow lanes
run groups
what to do when you break
and most important a time for questions, if you are new, speak up, ask questions! We have all been there and most drift dudes love to hear themselves talk, cough cough 

So the track is hot and we have a skid pad available. now what? 

ask if you can set up a cone and do donuts around it both ways until your car breaks or you can do 4- 5 each way with minimal corrections. you are learning to throw and catch the wheel, and throttle control here people


set up 2 cones about 10 - 15 yards apart, and practice figure 8s, you are learning advanced throttle control and focusing on doing the exacting same thing over and over, transitioning in the same spots each time. do this until you can do 4-5 of the exact figure 8s while mantling a non stabby throttle position. you want to be smooth and learn your cars particular timings. 

If you struggle with these, ask for pointers or for some of the more advanced dudes to ride with you, or better yet, let them show you, and pay attention. Not the time for a sick ass selfie of you riding shotgun with billy bad ass driving your car like you should be. 

Donts of the skid pad. 
its easy to get carried away DO NOT BLOW YOUR TIRES UP. Someone has to pick that shit up, and it's usually not the idiot who does it. 
dont be a pad hog. we get that your stock KA can go for 45 minutes without overheating because you listened to me in my last video, unless of course you are the only one there. pay attention rookie, and let others have some fun and learn as well. 
be dangerous or stupid. the skid pad is not a place to do standing burnouts, get sick with the wall, fence, your girlfriends mom, the selfie stick poking over the k rail or anything else of that matter. its a place to learn how to not suck when you actually go out onto the track. 

ok you've mastered that shit, now what? 

watch the normal track for a few laps before heading out, get the basic understanding of where to go. 

head out to the big boy track, and jump into the follow lane (which you know exactly because you listened in the drivers meeting) 

Donts for being out on track
jump in the wrong run group
tandem when you are not supposed to
do standing burnouts anywhere on the track 
get in the lead lane if you know you are struggling drifting the entire course 
put hands out, open your door, or let the passenger do the same
stop mid track to make a phone call 
go backwards for any reason
get out of your car if you break or get stuck, ever, unless its on fire, or the safety team cant figure out how to tow you and asks you to get out. 
don't go 11/10s immediately. you will crash spin a bunch or a combo of the two. get your bearings, pay attention to the course itself, do an autocross run first time out. Noone cares, people will think you are shaking down your car. 

start from the end of the course and work your way back. If you spend the whole day shittily entering and not being able to drift the rest of the course because your line is so far off its a circle, you are gonna be frustrated. the courses usually slow down at the end and have easier turns. master each turn starting with the last, and work your way back. 

ask for more advice when you struggle from the track workers, or other drivers in the pits. have someone records your runs so you can see where to improve

if you are over powering your front tires, air the back tires up more bit by bit until its easy to slide. 

I know that was a lot to cover, but these are real situations o've seen at my events over the years, and I want you as the new guy to come back and have fun next time. so I'll see you there. 

Tuesday, January 10, 2017

For Sale in NM: Caged Pro-AM legal Nissan 240sx s13 coupe with solid lifter RB25det, 15k obo

1990 Coupe 240sx s13 Chassis, probably 160k miles on it when we stripped it and took it all apart. Great inexpensive way to jump into pro am.  Build is probably around the 40k mark all said and done. Chassis / cage was done by Brian Dewitt at Car Crafters. Just the head alone is worth close to 9k. If asking price is met I will include every single spare RB part I have, plus a twin disc clutch, spare transmission and driveshaft.

Quasi famous, was in the video Motorcycle vs car drift battle 3 so thats rad. Own a part of drift history!
What you get (TL;DR): 
A done chassis that just needs your alignment to rock and roll
Enough wheels to run an event
Spares to fix what broke
Fully built head ready for built bottom end
Baller parts
Painted ready to be wrapped
Looking to get 19,000 obo 15,000 obo
Fully caged for pro-am / formula d if you add the anti intrusion bars
All sound deadening removed
Nascar curved style roll bars for plenty of space and no hitting of elbows
Floor pan pounded flat for your choice of seat, will come with a momo seat, and a brand new sparco for an extra 600
Tube front for easy removal and installation of engine and trans
Bash bar inside bumper
Hydro ebrake setup (non dual caliper)
Brake bias adjuster
Gutted stock doors with octopus painting on the passenger one. 
Rear mount Custom sized Northern radiator with -16an lines going to the front of the car, absolutely no overheating issues
2 big ass fans for said radiator, plus custom shroud
Fire suppression system that plumbs to the engine bay, cockpit and fuel cell
Quick release steering hub and adapter, steering wheel hanger
Dash with non op stock gauge cluster
AEM Tru boost controller
Innovate wideband gauge as well 
AEM Multi gauge
ARK panel 8 switches and relay assembly
Will come with 4 point harnesses, but they are expired and will need to be updated
Grip Royal Royal Trickle wheel
NRG quick release hub
5 lug all around
z32 brakes front

Fuel system:
Firewall to contain fuel system per rulebook
Fuel cell 
Radium engineering FST and 340lph walbro pump setup inside that, single walbro in tank to feed FST
Tomei fuel pressure regulator
1200cc Performance Fuel Injection Injectors 
Updated injector harness
Top feed rail

Stance pro coilovers 
PBM rear upper control arms
PBM traction rods
PBM bent toe links
PBM Front lowering knuckles
5 lug conversion
z32 brakes front and rear
Stock extended lcas
no name tension rods

20mm overfenders, brand new
40mm overs rear, brand new
Aftermarket skirts
Rear bumper (brand new)
Front bumper (brand new)
Carbon hood 
Holes cut into trunk and rear plexiglass for air evacuation
Big ass carbon wing
4 total naca ducts in the side windows to feed the rear radiator
Battery cut off switch located in spot per rulebook

RB25det with RB25 Trans 
With built stroked bottom end it made 780 at 20 psi. (that has been sold)
AEM Series II engine management and custom engine harness 

Supertech 1mm oversized valves
Supertech solid lifter conversion
Supertech guides
Supertech dual valvesprings
Shimless buckets 
Tomei Procam 272 intake cam
Tomei Procam 260 exhaust cam (NEO) Modified CAS for AEM and neo camshaft
Raw Brokerage adjustable cam gears
Raw Brokerage intake manifold
Raw Brokerage 80mm Throttle body
Raw Brokerage twin scroll t4 exhaust manifold
Raw Brokerage wastegate dump pipes
Choice of polished or neon yellow valve covers
LS1 coil packs custom mounted on intake side of head
ARP headstuds
1200cc performance fuel injection matched rate injectors
custom fuel rail
Custom harness for injectors and ignition

Engine / Turbo:
Garrett GTX3582R turbo (with possible spare for extra 1600)
ARP Head studs
ARP rod bolts
New bearings
Crank collar installed, crank polished
N1 oil pump
N1 water pump
Turbosmart racegate x2
Turbosmart raceport BOV
Stock RB25 factory bottom end
Raw Brokerage pulleys
Ross Tuffbond harmonic balancer
Nissan Quest alternator 
Remote mount oil filter and cooler
Custom mounts / crossmember

Stock rb25 trans with custom mount
1 piece driveshaft
Welded diff

Tons of RB25 stuff (I have yet to go through it all) 
4 rear Rota p45r 18x10.5 wheels and 2 fronts 18x9
rear over fenders, busted up front bumper, busted up sideskirts

I can get you financed
I can also deliver it to your door if we actually go through with the trade. 

The bads:
I kinda ramped it once, the sunroof tweaked a bit , but a few suspension adjustments later and it was right as rain.
The interior paint has faded from its neon color. Its not a brand new racecar, it has been used, the interior has scratches, some wires are messy, but everything works.

Here are tons of pics of the build and the car as it sits now. It made 450 at 18psi and is easily capable of hitting 650 (where it was pre rebuild) on more boost and a bottom end rebuild.